THE ICEMAN COMETH
Born in Guano in rural Ecuador, Baltazar was a native Quechua speaker – the most spoken indigenous language in the Andes. He could also speak Spanish, although not very fluently.
Baltazar grew up close to the highest mountain in Ecuador, Chimborazo. In the seventeenth and eighteenth century, it was thought to be the tallest mountain in the world, standing at 5,800 metres above sea level. It is one degree south of the equator.
Chimborazo is a sacred mountain to the local indigenous people, who call it ‘Chimbi’.
In 1802, the explorer Alexander Von Humboldt tried to climb the mountain – and failed.
Baltazar left school in grade three, unable to read or write.
He became an iceman at the age of fifteen, initially working with his parents, brothers and sisters.
They would collect blocks of ice from Chimborazo and sell them in the market at the nearest city, Riobamba. It was used to preserve food in the days before refrigeration.
Baltazar also sold ice at Le Merced market in his hometown of Guano.
Cutting out blocks of ice was a craft which was passed down from father to son for centuries. However, as Baltazar harvested ice for many years, other workers died, retired or moved away. Eventually, he became the last iceman.
He would work all year round, in ferocious weather. In summer, it was in scorching heat and in winter freezing conditions – well below zero. The air on the mountain was extremely thin. There was a constant fear of avalanches.
Baltazar never wore sunglasses and eventually his eyes were damaged by the glare of the sun.
He also wore the same cape throughout the whole of his career.
Baltazar climbed for five hours through the Andes to get to the ice mine, called ‘Los Hieleras’. The walk got longer over the years as the melting glaciers receded. He would only take a pickaxe with him, as well as his donkey. Baltazar never rode the animal, preserving its strength to carry the ice back down.
The only time he ever rode the donkey was when he broke his leg on the way up.
Baltazar’s technique never changed. The blocks of ice weighed 45 kilograms. Once the ice was cut it was covered in straw. Then it was a race against time – to get the ice to market before it melted. He sold ice for $4 a block.
Gradually, the use for the ice changed. It was used to make fruit juices and ice cream. It was also believed to have healing properties. Baltazar said, “It’s the tastiest and sweetest ice, full of vitamins for your bones.”
His biggest customer was Rosalita Almachi, who ran a stall on Riobamba market. She would make what she called ‘neck-breaking’ juices with the ice and local fruit.
The Almachi family have been buying ice from the Ushca’s since 1860.
Baltazar also grew his own vegetables. “This is how we work because of poverty. I am poor and I have no other choice.”
By becoming the last iceman of Chimborazo, Baltazar’s fame grew. He was visited by the President of Ecuador, Rafael Correa, who told him he was keeping part of Ecuador’s cultural heritage alive.
Baltazar said, “My family is envious that I am a friend of President Correa.”
There were television programmes and documentaries made about Baltazar, as well as a film entitled ‘El Ultimo Hielero’ , directed by Sandy Patch. ‘Hielero’ translates as ice merchant.
He tried to pass on the business to his son, but it was not a success. His son said, “A lot of people tell me, you can continue with your dad’s job, but I can’t. I tried but I couldn’t do it like my father. I’m too weak to go there.”
Baltazar responded, “This is a man’s work.”
However, Baltazar was sometimes joined up the mountain by his son-in-law, Juan, who quickly realised there was a profit to be made from his increased fame.
Juan began to charge tourists $38 a day to see the last real iceman at work.
Baltazar also went back to school, completing his primary education diploma at the age of 76. This was under an Ecuadorian government initiative to improve literacy.
In 2018, he stunned his family by writing his name on a piece of paper for the very first time.
Shortly afterwards, Baltazar was awarded a honorary degree for keeping alive the cultural tradition of icemakers. “With time, the ice will go, or the Hieleros will go…But I will continue, as long as there’s ice or until God takes me.”
God did take him. Baltazar was undertaking chores at home when he was charged at – and gored, by a bull.
He was rushed to hospital in Guano and then transferred to Riobamba, where he died.
His daughter, Carmen, said, “My dad had always been an example of work that we all wanted to follow.”
The mayor of Guano, Raul Cabrera, said, “He was an intelligent and very wise man who knew all the routes of Chimborazo.”
Son in law Juan has taken over the business.
RIP – Raising Ice Prices
